Invisible Layers Is the Trending Volumizing Technique for Fine Hair

Ask any stylist, and they’ll tell you there’s a haircutting technique to work around pretty much any hair woe. If you’re curious about the latest strategic chop gaining all the buzz in salons, say hello to invisible layers. 

What are invisible layers?

As the name suggests, these “layers” don’t appear as layers at all—they’re much different from your traditional styles of this type. So curtain and bottleneck bangs, for example? Definitely not invisible layers. Essentially the opposite of Jennifer Aniston’s famous ‘90s “Rachel” cut, these lesser-known layers are “soft and well-blended, with no clear line of ‘layer’ visible,” says celebrity hairstylist Sabrina Rowe Holdsworth of NTRL by Sabs.

This is a cut to consider if you’re new to layers and don’t necessarily want to commit. “You’ll get the layered movement without anyone knowing you have layers,” says celebrity hairstylist Lovette Candice. “What it really comes down to is your stylist knowing the different techniques and where the layers should be placed, without overdoing it. You’ll want to see someone who specializes in this type of cut.”

What is the purpose of invisible layers?

The purpose of layers in general is actually less about appearance and more about movement. “Invisible layers are one of my favorite cuts to do on someone who doesn’t want the choppy layered look, but wants all the benefits of a natural bouncy, voluminous look,” says Candace explains. “I cut invisible layers to create movement, wispiness, or to remove weight in the hair so it grows out beautifully,” adds Holdsworth. 

Which hair types should get invisible layers?

While the look was originally intended for fine hair (its most flattering hair type), it’s grown to become a favorite among the masses, including Kaia Gerber and Ciara. That said, “Benefits differ by type,” notes Holdsworth. “Fine to medium hair benefits from invisible layers as they build volume and create movement. Coarse, thick hair benefits by removing unwanted bulk and weight.” 

Candace agrees, explaining, “People with fine hair tend to shy away from layers because they often end up feeling stringy and choppy, but really they just need internal layers to give them an undone bounce with fullness. Someone with thick hair needs to lighten their load with movements and texture.”

How can you ask your stylist for invisible layers?

Even though invisible layers have gained newfound popularity, the technique has been around for years, so Holdsworth says your stylist shouldn’t have too much confusion understanding what you want. “You can simply ask for invisible layers or soft layers,” she says. “You can also specify that you don't want any visible layer lines. Any seasoned stylist knows exactly what to do!” 

If you have longer hair, you can ask for light layers, starting a few inches above where the hair lands. “Whether it's short or long, knowing how high or how low you should be placing these layers really gives the best outcome,” says Candice.